{"id":24,"date":"2008-04-20T12:27:39","date_gmt":"2008-04-20T12:27:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.zelmastrip.com\/wordpress\/?p=24"},"modified":"2008-04-20T12:27:39","modified_gmt":"2008-04-20T12:27:39","slug":"tuesday-8th-april-to-saturday-12-april-hanoi-and-sa-pa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.zelmastrip.com\/wordpress\/?p=24","title":{"rendered":"Tuesday 8th April to Saturday 12 April, Hanoi and Sa Pa"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"color: #800000;\">T<\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">here&#8217;s not a huge amount to say about Tuesday really &#8211; just that I spent another day <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">enjoying the old\u00a0qaurter of Hanoi, eating and pottering.\u00a0 In the evening I <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">went to Mau&#8217;s bar with Olly and met up with Alex and a few other people f<\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">rom his hostel prior to his returning home to Germany.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #800000;\">The following day I was slightly more productive and sorted my visa for <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">Laos out and also booked my train ticket to Sa Pa, a small town in the <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">North Highland region of Vietnam from where it is possible to visit the <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">&#8220;ethnic minority&#8221; villages.\u00a0 I&#8217;m still really uncomfortable with that as a <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">term but no-one here seems to find it offensive!\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #800000;\">The train journey to Sa <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">Pa was more comfortable than my previous sleeper train.\u00a0 This time there <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">were only four bunks and two of them were occupied by two friendly English <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">girls.\u00a0 I still struggled to sleep though which was a bit of a pain, even <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">without a Vietnamese man grabbing my feet to offer me hard-boiled eggs.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #800000;\">When we arrived in Lao Cai on the train I got a shared mini-bus to Sa Pa.\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">It quickly became apparent that the reputation Sa Pa and the surrounding <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">area has for its spectacular scenery was well and truly justified.\u00a0 When I <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">arrived in Sa Pa I looked at three hotels.\u00a0 Although the first was lovely <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">and had a view over Mount Fansipang (I think that&#8217;s right I spent so long <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">calling it fancy pants that I may have bastardised that somewhat) I felt <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">obliged to sum up the competition.\u00a0 When I returned to the initial hotel <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">the room I had been shown was taken and the one next door had a terrace if <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">you looked down and out of the window.\u00a0 It transpired that this was very <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">handy as I managed to get the room for under $5 which was a feat <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">considering it had two big beds, was lovely and had a gorgeous view.\u00a0 I had <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">a bit of a nap, went for a wander and bumped into Vaughan, one of Olly&#8217;s <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">housemate&#8217;s friends.\u00a0 We decided to take two Xe Oms to a local waterfall <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">which was truly stunning.\u00a0 After looking round the waterfall we found that <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">the road was closed on the way to Tramton Pass, apparently the highest <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">road pass in Vietnam.\u00a0 Oh, I meant to say that Mount Fansipang (which I <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">could see from my hotel bedroom) is the highest mountain in Vietnam but I <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">got a bit carried away with it being Fancy Pants again.\u00a0 Can you see how <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">traveling has matured me?\u00a0 God, what&#8217;s with all these asides today?\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">Right, so the road was closed and we went through this whole rigmarole <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">with the drivers who wanted more money if they were going to have to wait <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">for the road to be cleared of boulders before taking us to the next <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">destination.\u00a0 Having been told it would be around an hour and <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">re-negotiating a price, the road mysteriously opened again.\u00a0 Typical!\u00a0 It <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">was worth going to the pass as the views were truly spectacular, if s<\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">lightly misty in places.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #800000;\">That evening we returned to Sa Pa and went to our respective hotel rooms <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">to clean up.\u00a0 When I got back I was handed a candle which I presumed meant <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">that there was no electricity.\u00a0 I realised when I got back to the room <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">that I had nowhere to put the damn candle and had to make a strange <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">improvised candlestick using a vase and various other implements.\u00a0 I then <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">had a shower by candle-light which was both serene and surreal at the same <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">time.\u00a0 There were also some very odd naked lady soft core porn tiles in my <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">bathroom which added to the oddity.\u00a0 Another missed photo opportunity I&#8217;m <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">afraid.\u00a0 The tiles I mean, not me in a candlelit shower, I&#8217;ve had enough <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">comments about the website title already without needing pictures like <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">that!<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #800000;\">I then met up with Vaughan again, went and got some food and went for some<\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">\u00a0drinks.\u00a0 We went to a bar in Sa Pa with locals including the Vietnamese <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">minority women, one of whom turned out to be a crazily good pool shark, <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">infact she was one of the best players I have ever encountered.\u00a0 There was<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #800000;\">also a group of other local women sitting round a table playing cards for <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">money at great pace.\u00a0 It was very strange to see the almost juxtoposition <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">of cultures and these sweet little Vietnamese women in beautiful <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">traditional dress engaging in very Western games.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #800000;\">The local Vietnamese women were hilarious actually.\u00a0 A lot of them now <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">sell crafts to the tourists and have an excellent command of the English <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">language.\u00a0 One of them asked if Vaughan and I were boyfriend and <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">girlfriend, when he replied that we were just friends she said, &#8220;Now <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">friends, tonight girlfriend and boyfriend&#8221;, which was relatively amusing.\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">Vaughan also seemed to get some comedy attention for his long hair (it&#8217;s\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">shoulder length).\u00a0 He recounted a story to me from his guesthouse when he <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">gave them his passport.\u00a0 Apparently the proprietor asked if it was him in <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">the picture, was shocked and said something like, &#8220;but you look very <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">handsome there&#8221;, &#8211; he had short hair in his passport photo.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #800000;\">Actually the Vietnamese are a very blunt Nation in general, this is not <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">reserved to the tribal &#8220;ethnic minority people&#8221; (euuck!).\u00a0 Olly often <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">reports back having taught his classes of adult Vietnamese learning <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">English.\u00a0 In one class they were discussing crime and <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">one of the female class members said, &#8220;One of my friends is in prison&#8221;.\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">When Olly asked why she initially stated that he took some money over the <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">border.\u00a0 Olly quizzed her further thinking that this was a harsh punishment not befitting the crime and she replied that, &#8220;it was quite a <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">lot of money and &#8230;&#8230; he was a gangster.&#8221; which seemed to make it somewhat <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">clearer.\u00a0 Another of his female students had some time off as she was <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">having an operation on her eyes.\u00a0 Infront of the class Olly welcomed her <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">back and asked how the operation had gone.\u00a0 He was somewhat shocked when <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">she replied that it was, &#8220;terrible&#8221; upon asking why he received the reply, <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">&#8220;now I can see how ugly everyone in the classs is!&#8221;<\/span><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #800000;\">\u00a0Anyway, I think that may have been another of my digressions.\u00a0 Back to Sa <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">Pa&#8230;..\u00a0 So the next morning I woke up, met Vaughan and we went and got <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">some breakfast.\u00a0 We decided to go on a walk to one of the local villages (although we kind of went the wrong way and didn&#8217;t see the village).\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">On the way back the route was all uphill and I was feeling a bit rubbish <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">so we got two mad xe oms back.\u00a0 En route we passed a man on a <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">motorbike with a snake tied to a stick still alive (the snake not the man although he was too of course) <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">which was relatively amusing and also slightly worrying as we got quite <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">close.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #800000;\">The minibus trip back to the station that night was amazing.\u00a0 The <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">mountains were all misty and mystical and I was listening to my Ipod.\u00a0 It <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">doesn&#8217;t get much better then Cafe del Mar in misty mountains in Vietnam <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">with your head out the window breathing in the fresh moist air.\u00a0 Did that<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #800000;\">sound pretentious?\u00a0 Actually I don&#8217;t really care if it did.\u00a0 If it&#8217;s any <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">consolation I came back from Sa Pa with a stinking cold which is yet to <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">go!<\/span><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #800000;\">\u00a0The train ride home was again fine although I don&#8217;t know what it is with <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">people on trains and my feet.\u00a0 An Australian guy got up half-way through <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">the night and managed to use my foot to lower himself down to the floor!\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">I won&#8217;t complain too much though as he and his wife were lovely, I talked <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">to them for some time and also as I can&#8217;t remember either of their names!<\/span><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #800000;\">I got back to\u00a0Hanoi at 5AM in the morning.\u00a0 Olly had booked a tour to <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">Halong Bay with the bus leaving at 8AM.\u00a0 After numerous attempts and <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">sitting outside his house in the street for three hours, he eventually <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">emerged very apologetic.\u00a0 I won&#8217;t elaborate on this here as I was slightly <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">frustrated to say the least and am not sure that you would all appreciate <\/span><span style=\"color: #800000;\">the expletives!<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>There&#8217;s not a huge amount to say about Tuesday really &#8211; just that I spent another day enjoying the old\u00a0qaurter of Hanoi, eating and pottering.\u00a0 In the evening I went to Mau&#8217;s bar with Olly and met up with Alex and a few other people from his hostel prior to his returning home to Germany. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zelmastrip.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zelmastrip.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zelmastrip.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zelmastrip.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zelmastrip.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=24"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.zelmastrip.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zelmastrip.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=24"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zelmastrip.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=24"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zelmastrip.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=24"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}